London tips for a first-timer

As you may have read in my other post How to do London in one day, usually when I visit London it’s a day trip, as my trips to England are generally to visit and stay with family in Dorset. However, there have also been a handful of occasions when I have been fortunate to travel from Sydney to London for business. On those trips I have stayed up to a week, squeezing in some leisure time (generally solo) around my work commitments.

Recently, a good friend was planning her own work trip to London, which was allowing her some spare time for leisure too. She asked for my tips on where to stay and ‘must-see’ sites ; of course I was very happy to oblige. This post is inspired by the loose itinerary and recommendations I shared with her.

Where to stay

As you can imagine, there are heaps of choices of hotels, Air BnB’s and apartments. First step in narrowing it down is to work out the general location you want to stay in and your budget. I recommend staying somewhere reasonably central to London, where you can jump on a tube to go anywhere easily. If you are there for work and your meetings will be mainly in the city then I’d recommend staying somewhere in the city reasonably close to your work commitments. Otherwise, if you’re there for a holiday, you might like somewhere closer to the main tourist attractions.

On work visits, I have always preferred to stay in a city apartment. During my first two visits I chose an apartment near Monument (Native Monument) but on my third trip, it wasn’t vacant so I stayed in a different place near Cannon St station (Cove Cannon St). For that same trip, I stayed an extra couple of nights on my own purse so moved to a slightly less expensive hotel, a short walking distance with my luggage, opposite Leadenhall Market. There are many other places to stay around the city… Two of my work colleagues regularly choose a hotel at Threadneedle and one of my other work friends usually stays further up the top (east) end of the city near Tower Bridge. All of these options are easy walking distance to the city.

Whether you choose to stay in an apartment or hotel might depend on how long you are in London. If you are only staying one or two nights or you have a full social diary where you intend to eat out for breakfast, lunch and dinner, a hotel is completely fine. The reason I choose apartments is because I usually don’t eat breakfast, some nights I only want a light take-away dinner if I am on my own, plus you tend to have more space in an apartment. Also, you’ll usually have a washing machine if you’re in an apartment, which comes in handy if you are staying longer. There are lots of choices for city apartments now on various booking sites, which means that apartments are generally no more expensive than a hotel.

Suggested itineraries

Whether you have a whole day, a half day or just a couple of spare hours, these are my recommendations, ordered generally by locations that are near each other to maximise your time spent. If you have a full day with total flexibility to venture around London you could group a few together.

I’ve also added my tips on the best times to visit if you prefer to avoid crowds.

• Buckingham Palace / Changing of the Guard / St James Park – Even if it’s just a drive-by in a cab, you simply cannot miss seeing the Palace. A few things to note though if you want to see the Changing of the Guards. (1) You need to do this in the morning as it usually takes place from around 10:30 am; (2) This ceremony spans three locations (St James Palace, Wellington Barracks and Buckingham Palace) so there’s no singular place to see the entire ceremony; (3) you cannot avoid crowds at Buckingham Palace, it’s always busy there, no matter when you visit; and (4) it doesn’t take place every day so you should check the schedule before you make plans. If you don’t have the luxury and flexibility in your itinerary to time it right for a Changing of the Guard ceremony, it’s still worthwhile taking a walk to see the Palace and St James Park at another time of day. However if you can time it right, I suggest first walk down Whitehall to see the Horse Guards from 10am (there should be less tourists around this time); then walk past no. 10 Downing St nearby (even though you won’t see much, and be prepared for security if the PM is nearby), and then walk through St James Park or along Birdcage Walk to Buckingham Palace being sure to make it before 10:45am for the Changing of the Guards. I recommend the Queen Victoria Memorial outside the Palace as a good vantage point to see the Guards parade marching past on the roadways and it’s also the least crowded area being back a little bit from the front gates; the downside is you won’t see the ceremony occurring inside the gates, to see that you need to be up by the gates where you’ll likely also be up against someone else’s armpit.

• Parliament Square / Westminster Abbey – if you start early enough and just want to walk around the Square to admire the nearby Parliament buildings and Big Ben, without going inside the Abbey, you could fit this in after seeing the Horse Guards/ No.10 Downing and before heading to Buckingham Palace. However, if you do want to go inside Westminster Abbey, which generally doesn’t open until 9:30am, I’d recommend doing this another time – you don’t want to be rushing when tickets cost £30.00 per adult. Alternatively, you could reverse the order and go to the Palace first, then head to Parliament Square and Westminster Abbey afterwards. Having been to Parliament Square a few times I’ve noticed it seems busier with tourists after lunchtime so if you want to avoid crowds, a morning visit might best. You really don’t need long if you just want to have a wander around the Square to check out the buildings and the statues around the Square. If you have extra time afterwards, you could walk down Whitehall past The Cenotaph, No.10 Downing St and the Horse Guards Parade (if you haven’t already seen them), until you get to Trafalgar Square.

• Trafalgar Square / The National Gallery – There are several directions you can come from. Usually I come from Embankment, after walking down the Thames, or arriving at Waterloo Station and walking across the Thames. However I have also come here after visiting Buckingham Palace, taking a stroll down the Mall admiring the buildings on one side and the park along the other, then walking through Admiralty Arch. Alternatively you may have come down Whitehall, after visiting Parliament Square. If you are of my vintage, and visited here in the 1970’s or 80’s you might remember it being famous for pigeons. They are no longer there, and now you just have to contend with other tourists, some of which are equally irritating, especially those ignoring the warning signs not to climb on the statues and fountain. If the weather is fine, it’s a great place to pause and sit on a nearby bench, people watching and admiring the memorial to Lord Nelson. During the Christmas period on one visit I discovered German-like market stalls selling food, mulled wine and various items which would make good Christmas gifts. If you like art and have time, you should also visit the National Gallery, at the top of Trafalgar Square, where they display many paintings by an array of artists from different eras, ranging from Leonardo da Vinci to Vincent van Gogh. Admission is free.

• Leicester Square / The West End / Chinatown – Not far from Trafalgar Square and only a short (5 minute) walk you will come across Leicester Square. This is a pedestrianised square in the heart of the West End of London, known as the entertainment district. You can see one of their famous West End shows, watch a movie at one of the cinemas, check out a gallery, pick up some touristy souvenirs or grab a meal at one of their many restaurants. Get lost down a side street and you’ll likely find yourself in Chinatown made obvious by the red lanterns and decorations hanging across the street – here you can browse some more stores or enjoy a tasty meal.

• Covent Garden – while you can catch a tube to Covent Garden I always walk. If you have come from the Thames, or via Embankment, head up through Charing Cross and if you haven’t already been, detour via Trafalgar Square and/or Leicester Square. There are always lots of people about no matter when you visit, though cooler months outside peak tourist season are less busy. On one evening visit after work in early November, I was lucky to arrive just as a show was about to begin, which I discovered was celebrating the switching on of the Xmas lights and their large Christmas tree. During the day you will find Jubilee markets off to one side – market stalls selling a variety of clothing, touristy and other trinkets, and you’ll also find many shops and a variety of places to eat and drink. The Apple store is also here if you need to recharge or check out the latest gadgets.

• Shopping destinations – London is great for shopping and no matter what you are into, you will find it in London. Around Oxford St, Piccadilly Circus, and Regent St, you will find all the common high street fashion brands and stores, ranging from budget to high end. Venture to Carnaby St in Soho and you’ll be disappointed if you are expecting it to be like the 60’s and full of quirky and original fashion – now it’s the same, common, street brands you will find elsewhere. If you are looking for antiques and vintage, head to Notting Hill’s Portobello Road market, and for more interesting, weird and wacky fashion and hand crafted items go to Camden Lock markets or Spitalfields market (Camden is far superior and larger); and if you can afford really high end expensive and sophisticated brands and boutiques (or you just want to browse and dream), head to Harrods and Harvey Nichols at Knightsbridge, Liberty London or if you’re after a tailored suit, Savill Row is the place to go.

• Museums or Art Galleries -as you would expect from a large city like London, there are a variety of galleries and museums to soak up some history and culture. My favourites are Banksy’s exhibition, Tate Britain (after a walk across Vauxhall Bridge for a photo of MI6 building which was blown up in a James Bond movie), The National Gallery at Trafalgar Square, and The British Museum. Whichever you choose, you will need at least an hour or two; some are free admission – a bonus if you are on a budget!

• A stroll along the Thames / Southbank – During one work trip in early November when evenings were still reasonably light, after finishing my meetings by around 4pm I was feeling a bit jet-lagged so decided to go for a walk to avoid falling asleep too early. My walk ended up being much longer than planned, because I was really enjoying the scenery and fresh air. You can pick either side of the Thames for a walk. I chose to walk along the city side on this trip since I was staying in Cannon St not far from our office. I quickly dropped my work stuff and changed into casual clothes, then walked west down Cannon St towards St Paul’s Cathedral, where I paused momentarily to admire the sun setting, shining pink and orange shadows onto its exterior walls and dome. From there I turned down towards the Thames where I walked alongside the river on the promenade until I reached Embankment. If you have the energy and inclination, you can either keep walking to your next destination or walk back to your digs ; alternatively you can jump on a tube to wherever you want to go next. Another option is to walk the Southbank side. I did just that one Saturday night around 10pm after seeing a show at the Southbank Centre. There were so many people around I felt quite safe. I just made sure that I kept near other groups or couples while I was walking. The lights across the Thames were quite spectacular, a photographer’s dream. On a separate occasion at the opposite end of the day when again suffering from jetlag and waking at 3.30am, after tossing and turning for a couple of hours I decided to get up and go for a morning walk, this time heading east up the Thames until I reached Tower Bridge. Once again, the lighting was perfect, this time rewarding me with a picturesque sunrise behind the bridge as I drank my morning coffee.

• St Paul’s Cathedral – A short walking distance from the city, if you have an hour or two during its opening hours, it’s worth visiting this cathedral. Even if its closed, you can at least browse around the outside and admire the architecture. If you want to go inside, there’s an entry fee – not cheap but totally worth it. You can sit in the pews and reflect or pray, admiring the intricate interior and stained glass windows. Plus you can climb all the stairs to the top of the Dome where you can walk around the outside and experience some spectacular views. Beware it’s an absolute thigh burner, with narrow and winding staircases, so it’s not for the faint-hearted. If you are visiting late afternoon, you may also want take a quick detour to a hidden gem I discovered, to One New Change shopping mall across the road. You can take a lift up to their 6th floor rooftop bar ‘Madison’, and have a drink over some lovely views across St Pauls dome, if timed right you could catch a sunset. On one of my visits a few years ago pre-Covid, I was able to visit their terrace observation deck when it was open to public access so I could admire the views and take photos without going into the rooftop bar. Sadly, on my last visit to London this observation deck was closed to public access due to construction work – it’s worth checking if it’s open before you visit.

• City of London – given its close proximity I’d recommend combining a visit to the city with St Paul’s Cathedral if you have time. If you can visit the city during a weekday it’s far more vibrant with its city workers out and about. I liked the fact the city has fewer tourists around, and I’ve always found it less busy than the other tourist places I’ve mentioned above. At night time and on weekends it’s even quieter once the workers have disappeared. Another bonus, as a solo female I felt fairly safe walking around after dark although must say I preferred day time hours when more people were about. If you are coming from the Cathedral, walk past the Bank of England and admire its architecture, before venturing up Cannon Street, or if you like old architecture, walk up Lombard Street. If you have time I’d recommend a visit to the Sky Garden in the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building (named so due to its shape) -you can book in advance to catch the lift up to see the view, to avoid queues – there is also a fancy restaurant up top (bookings recommended) and can check out the views afterwards (no need to book the observation deck lift pass if you already have a restaurant booking). It’s worth swinging past the Monument nearby, a memorial to the Great Fire of London which started nearby in Pudding Lane. Go for a random wander around the streets heading away from the Thames and you’ll most likely stumble across the shiny and quirky looking Lloyds building known as the ‘inside out’ building because its ducts and lifts are located on the outside of the building (worth a look even if you have no interest in insurance), the unusual Gherkin building, maybe the distinctive landmark wedge shaped Cheesegrater building (real name, Leadenhall building) and you absolutely must find Leadenhall Market. If you’re a Harry Potter fan, you’ll recognise Leadenhall Market as Diagon Alley from the first movie. You’ll find bars and restaurants here if you’re looking for a lunch option or just a quick pint or glass of wine – though it might be a bit quiet on a weekend without the city workers (I’ve only been on a weekday). Leadenhall is very busy at lunchtime and after 4pm on weekdays when the local workers descend here for a well-earned pint or three. There’s also a good Wetherspoons pub across the road on Gracechurch St called The Crosse Keys, which has a grand interior (being an ex-bank) and food isn’t bad either. Another recommended place to stop for something to eat or drink which I highly recommend is The Ned, not far from Bank station. This is an exclusive 5 star hotel and members club situated in the former Midland Bank headquarters; you will find around 7 restaurants and 3 bars on the ground floor -I’ve had two lunches and a breakfast at Millie’s Lounge – make sure you visit the amenities downstairs so you can see the old vault. If you have time, venture up to Garden at 120 Fenchurch Street, at the top end of the city, about a 10 minute walk from Tower of London – here you can catch a lift up to the rooftop garden for more lovely views. They have a café and restaurant up there too but check their opening times.

• Tower of London: I thoroughly recommend a visit to this historic castle. The highlight for me was the Crown Jewels and the medieval White Tower. You need at least a couple of hours here, potentially more, depending on your attention span and interest in Royal history. You can buy tickets when you’re there but may save a couple of pounds and avoid queuing if you buy your tickets online in advance.

• Tower Bridge: Adjacent to the Tower of London, you can admire this iconic bridge from the banks of the Thames or can walk across the bridge and visit the Tower Bridge Exhibition for panoramic views. Great photo opportunities any time of the day, but especially if you time your visit at sunrise, sunset or with the lights reflecting off the Thames at night.

Places to eat

There are so many options (!) but here are a few stand outs I recommend:

• In the City for lunch options I recommend Millie’s Lounge at The Ned, Fenchurch restaurant at Sky Garden, and Giorgio at Leadenhall Market. There are several pubs here too, including The Crosse Keys which is a large Wetherspoons pub in an old converted bank building – I was pleasantly surprised by the enjoyable steak I devoured here, though its a large and busy place and the acoustics make it rather loud. The Monument pub is also not bad if you fancy some good old fashioned pub food.
• Soho is home to a multitude of Indian and other restaurants. You can also find the Italian Bear Chocolate cafe here (recommended for any chocolate lover – the best hot chocolate ever, made of three types of chocolate dripping all over the outside of the cup). They do a great chocolate cake too!
• Leicester Square – several italian and other types of restaurants can be found here and Chinatown is also here off down a side street
• Covent Garden has a wide variety of restaurants and pubs open day and night. I can vouch the White Lion pub serving excellent food in its restaurant upstairs.
• Seven Dials market can be found down a side street off Covent garden and is open from noon until late. It’s a multi-level food court with several food outlets and bars offering a great atmosphere.
• Borough Market is a great lunchtime destination. I read Maria’s Market Cafe is a Borough Market institution serving traditional English breakfasts (all day) since 1961 and so I went there for lunch /brunch and can confirm it was indeed a great breakfast. There are also some restaurants here which are open for dinner, I had a great steak with a colleague at Black & Blue.
• South Bank has many Riverside Restaurants ; or if you happen to be catching a concert or show at the Southbank Centre, they have an array of street food stalls offering different international cuisines at the Southbank Centre Food Market, open Friday and Saturday from noon to 8pm and Sundays until 6pm.

Nightlife

Most of the times I have stayed in London overnight I have been solo, so haven’t been able to experience nightlife as I didn’t fancy going out partying late on my own. That said, I have been able to enjoy some more low key entertainment on my own, from going to a movie and having dinner at Leicester Square, to catching a concert at Southbank Centre. I’ve also been able to enjoy a dinner on a few occasions, either with colleagues or with my Uncle before catching a train back out of London later that night. Here are a few suggested options if you fancy an evening out :

• South Bank I was fortunate to have timed one work trip in November 2023 at the same time as the London Jazz festival and then discovered Emeli Sande was performing at the Southbank Centre so of course I had to buy a ticket. Not knowing how long it would take me to get there I allowed plenty of time, thinking I could get something to eat before hand. Imagine how pleasantly surprised I was to stumble across the Southbank Centre Food Market offering an array of cuisines. Despite being busy, I was still able to find a bench so I could sit down to enjoy my spicy Korean chicken.
• Soho Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club is an historic institution with performances from the world’s top and upcoming jazz and blues musicians.
• Leicester Square for an almost endless choice of West End musicals or plays.
• Camden has many trendy clubs and bars including Camden Jazz Cafe and although I can’t say I’ve experienced many, I have certainly walked past a few and enviously wished I was younger and not on my own so as to experience some of the music and fun pumping out.

Additional Tips

• Tubes (London Underground) or other public transport – You can tap on & off with your credit card, or if you prefer not to do this, purchase an Oyster Card from a tube station for convenient and cost-effective travel. If it’s your first time using the Underground, don’t worry, it’s really easy to navigate once you understand the different colour coded lines. They have large maps displayed on the walls at every tube station so you can pause to work out how to get to your next destination however I recommend downloading ‘Tube Map’ to your phone or taking a picture of it, so you can work it out in advance.
• Walking Shoes: In my opinion, London really is best explored on foot, to see all the beautiful architecture, discover stores you didn’t know were there and truly feel the vibe of the hustle and bustle going on around you. So comfortable walking shoes are a must. Tubes stations are so close together it is often quicker to walk from one to the next by the time you factor in the stairs and escalators.
• Weather Preparedness: Be prepared for changing weather conditions. If you’re not used to rain, carry an umbrella, and in cooler months, dress in layers. In colder months you get blasted by heaters as you enter inside buildings and will find yourself wanting to strip off those layers
• Book in Advance: In recent years, major attractions and shows often sell out, so book tickets in advance whenever possible, to avoid disappointment. Gone are the days of being able to spontaneously find and enjoy entertainment.
• Safety and security: Goes without saying, any big city will always have opportunistic thieves and criminals. My advice is to try to not look too much like a tourist, and keep your personal belongings close to you, with a tight hold on your phone or bag at all times especially if you’re in a crowded area (one of my friends had her phone grabbed off her by a couple of guys riding past on a motorbike). I usually use a small cross body bag, unless I’ve been shopping. Don’t walk down dark alleys or through dark parks on your own if there is nobody else around, and keep your wits about you. Fortunately, I have never had any problem (touch wood!)